There are two types of bobbins:  One type has holes drilled to fit the common winders of most
machines (approximately 3/8 inch), and the other is for Gearharts and others with holes of
approximately 3/16 inch.  If you are ordering bobbins and the hole in the bottom of your bobbins are
not close to one of the measurements listed, I will need a more accurate measurement so I can make
sure the bobbins I send you will fit your winder.  Below are pictures of the two main types of winders.

I am offering new rubber drive bands.  See below for description and price.

Please ask any questions you may have or order through the 'Contact Me' page.

Scroll down the page for instructions on winding a bobbin for good feeding to the sock machine.  Here
is a link to a YouTube Video that should be useful:
 Bobbin Winding
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FOR SALE
Contact me for availability.
Antique Cast Iron Bobbin Winders and Rubber Drive Bands
The photo below is of a typical antique winder
that came with many of the old machines.
The photo below is of a Gearhart winder.  Note the
smaller spindle.
Example of a properly wound wooden bobbin.
the end of the yarn to the bobbin, near the base.  Mount the winder in any way it is comfortable and convenient for you to
wind the yarn.  I like mine on the right side with the spindle facing left.  That way I can sit right in front of it, holding the yarn
with my left hand and cranking with my right.  If your bobbin tends to slip and fall off, put a strip of rubber shelf liner (one
will be included in your bobbin order) over the spindle of your winder  to hold it in place.  Push the bobbin over the
spindle.  Start winding, keeping a bit of tension on the yarn.  Two important things:  (1) keep winding most of the yarn
toward the base of the bobbin*; and (2) make sure you have at least 2 inches of bobbin showing above the top of your
wound yarn**.  Once you have your "a ha!" about it, it's really easy and not as complicated as it might sound.  If you have
access to any sock machine people in your area, ask them to show you how to do it (if they use their winders).

*You should wind up with a conical shape in your wound yarn.  You want to avoid a bulge in the middle.  This makes the
yarn hang up when knitting, and can cause dropped stitches.  Wind a good bit at the bottom, and go up and back several
times, then wind a good bit at the bottom, etc.

**If you let your yarn wind too far up, it could come off at the top and become a real mess.  You would probably have to cut
your yarn and wind the yarn from your bobbin into a ball and start all over.  You also want to make sure that when your
yarn is winding toward the top limit (you might want to mark it on one of your bobbins until you get used to it), you don't
allow your tension to relax.
Rubber Drive Bands for Winders - Current Price (as of 07/2011)
I am offering new rubber drive bands for your old winders that need them.  These
give a good fit, and are slightly stretchy with no slipping.

$5.00 each ($4.00 + $1.00 USPS First Class Shipping within the continental US).  
Shipping outside the US will be calculated.
PLEASE NOTE:  As if October 2011, I am totally out of winders.  If I am able to acquire another supply of the
old winders, I will modify the site to reflect this.  You can sometimes find the old winders listed on eBay, or
you could put an ad on one of the sock machine groups on Yahoo or Ravelry that you are looking for one.

I am, however, working on the design of a new type of wooden winder which, I hope, will have an adapter for
use of the old style of wooden bobbins.  I expect to have these available in late March or early April of 2012.