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Remember the bobbin winder you may have received, along with one or two wooden bobbins, with the
machine you won on eBay or found elsewhere? Many of us quickly discovered that one or two bobbins
are just not enough!
If you have been having problems with smooth feeding of the yarn to the needles, a properly wound
wooden bobbin* is (IMO) the best alternative to buying an electric cone winder and cardboard cones.
AND it was the authentic method in use during the earlier time that the sock machines were sold.
Starting in 2011, the bobbins I am offering are being made by me personally in my new workshop.
Most of them look pretty much like the poplar bobbin pictured below. The first two batches, now sold
out, were made from poplar. The poplar bobbins are the least expensive, and will remain my basic
wood for most of the bobbins.
As of July 2011, I have added bobbins in birch, cherry, and walnut. The bases are made of the same
woods and can be mixed or matched as you choose. Prices for these bobbins are slightly higher than
those for the poplar bobbins.
There are two types of bobbins: One type has holes drilled to fit the common winders of most
machines (approximately 3/8 inch), and the other is for Gearharts and others with holes of
approximately 3/16 inch. If you are ordering bobbins and the hole in the bottom of your bobbins are not
close to one of the measurements listed, I will need a more accurate measurement so I can make sure
the bobbins I send you will fit your winder. Below are pictures of the two main types of winders.
Please ask any questions you may have or order through the 'Contact Me' page, and I will get back to
you with the total price plus shipping to your location..
*Scroll down the page for instructions on winding a bobbin. Or watch the YouTube Video
machine you won on eBay or found elsewhere? Many of us quickly discovered that one or two bobbins
are just not enough!
If you have been having problems with smooth feeding of the yarn to the needles, a properly wound
wooden bobbin* is (IMO) the best alternative to buying an electric cone winder and cardboard cones.
AND it was the authentic method in use during the earlier time that the sock machines were sold.
Starting in 2011, the bobbins I am offering are being made by me personally in my new workshop.
Most of them look pretty much like the poplar bobbin pictured below. The first two batches, now sold
out, were made from poplar. The poplar bobbins are the least expensive, and will remain my basic
wood for most of the bobbins.
As of July 2011, I have added bobbins in birch, cherry, and walnut. The bases are made of the same
woods and can be mixed or matched as you choose. Prices for these bobbins are slightly higher than
those for the poplar bobbins.
There are two types of bobbins: One type has holes drilled to fit the common winders of most
machines (approximately 3/8 inch), and the other is for Gearharts and others with holes of
approximately 3/16 inch. If you are ordering bobbins and the hole in the bottom of your bobbins are not
close to one of the measurements listed, I will need a more accurate measurement so I can make sure
the bobbins I send you will fit your winder. Below are pictures of the two main types of winders.
Please ask any questions you may have or order through the 'Contact Me' page, and I will get back to
you with the total price plus shipping to your location..
*Scroll down the page for instructions on winding a bobbin. Or watch the YouTube Video
| ________________________ FOR SALE Contact me for availability. |
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| Wooden Bobbins |
| Current Prices for Bobbins (as of 07/2011) |
Poplar
One bobbin $ 14.00 + shipping
Order four or more at $13.00 each
Birch, Cherry, and Walnut
One bobbin $ 18.00 + shipping
Order four or more at $16.00 each
Shipping within the US will be USPS Priority, and will be calculated according to your location (domestic
or foreign). There are no shipping/handling fees.
One bobbin $ 14.00 + shipping
Order four or more at $13.00 each
Birch, Cherry, and Walnut
One bobbin $ 18.00 + shipping
Order four or more at $16.00 each
Shipping within the US will be USPS Priority, and will be calculated according to your location (domestic
or foreign). There are no shipping/handling fees.
The photo below is of a typical antique winder
that came with many of the old machines.
that came with many of the old machines.
The photo below is of a Gearhart winder. Note the
smaller spindle.
smaller spindle.
| Example of a properly wound wooden bobbin. |
There is a bit of a trick to winding a good bobbin. Here is the basic technique for winding: Tape the end of the yarn to the bobbin,
near the base. Mount the winder in any way it is comfortable and convenient for you to wind the yarn. I like mine on the right side
with the spindle facing left. That way I can sit right in front of it, holding the yarn with my left hand and cranking with my right. If your
bobbin tends to slip and fall off, put a strip of rubber shelf liner (one will be included in your bobbin order) over the spindle of your
winder to hold it in place. Push the bobbin over the spindle. Start winding, keeping a bit of tension on the yarn. Two important
things: (1) keep winding most of the yarn toward the base of the bobbin*; and (2) make sure you have at least 2 inches of bobbin
showing above the top of your wound yarn**. Once you have your "a ha!" about it, it's really easy and not as complicated as it might
sound. If you have access to any sock machine people in your area, ask them to show you how to do it (if they use their winders).
*You should wind up with a conical shape in your wound yarn. You want to avoid a bulge in the middle. This makes the yarn hang
up when knitting, and can cause dropped stitches. Wind a good bit at the bottom, and go up and back several times, then wind a
good bit at the bottom, etc.
**If you let your yarn wind too far up, it could come off at the top and become a real mess. You would probably have to cut your yarn
and wind the yarn from your bobbin into a ball and start all over. You also want to make sure that when your yarn is winding toward
the top limit (you might want to mark it on one of your bobbins until you get used to it), you don't allow your tension to relax.
near the base. Mount the winder in any way it is comfortable and convenient for you to wind the yarn. I like mine on the right side
with the spindle facing left. That way I can sit right in front of it, holding the yarn with my left hand and cranking with my right. If your
bobbin tends to slip and fall off, put a strip of rubber shelf liner (one will be included in your bobbin order) over the spindle of your
winder to hold it in place. Push the bobbin over the spindle. Start winding, keeping a bit of tension on the yarn. Two important
things: (1) keep winding most of the yarn toward the base of the bobbin*; and (2) make sure you have at least 2 inches of bobbin
showing above the top of your wound yarn**. Once you have your "a ha!" about it, it's really easy and not as complicated as it might
sound. If you have access to any sock machine people in your area, ask them to show you how to do it (if they use their winders).
*You should wind up with a conical shape in your wound yarn. You want to avoid a bulge in the middle. This makes the yarn hang
up when knitting, and can cause dropped stitches. Wind a good bit at the bottom, and go up and back several times, then wind a
good bit at the bottom, etc.
**If you let your yarn wind too far up, it could come off at the top and become a real mess. You would probably have to cut your yarn
and wind the yarn from your bobbin into a ball and start all over. You also want to make sure that when your yarn is winding toward
the top limit (you might want to mark it on one of your bobbins until you get used to it), you don't allow your tension to relax.
Poplar
Left to right: Walnut, Cherry, Birch. Hand Painted yarn
from A Good Yarn, Greenwood, IN; 317-888-4791.
from A Good Yarn, Greenwood, IN; 317-888-4791.